2021 FALL DINING GUIDE TOM SIETSEMAOCTOBER 6, 2021 WASHINGTON POST The key to picking an aqua scooter that will deliver fun safely is to know what factors are important to you. The lush uni, meanwhile, is plucked from Santa Barbara, Calif. Hiroshi presents the treasure with a dab of wasabi and a tiny quail egg. Proof of vaccination required for indoor dining. The chef gives chicken the everything bagel treatment, except that the entrees crunch comes as much from dried, crumbled chicken skin as the usual seeds and garlic. NoVA Magazine - #3 Best Restaurant in NoVA. If the kitchen is taking shortcuts, I cant taste them. No restaurant can be all things to all diners, but I like how this one goes right for the hugs. 703-567-6615 cafecollineva.com Lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday Dinner entrees $16 to $37 Pickup via website or phone; no delivery. The roomy, unisex restroom thoughtfully includes Braille type near the entry. It really ought to be in pictures. Of course, we inhaled it. Spanish Diner opened two years ago to such great and sustained applause in New York, rainmaker Jos Andrs says he felt compelled to open a second branch in Washington, specifically Bethesda, where he lives, and where his three daughters insisted he couldnt close the Maryland branch of Jaleo unless it was followed by something similarly flavored. Langhorne says the next chapter is all about refinement: not doing as much as before, but doing everything better. We feel comfortable we can get to the other side, Tyler told me recently. A thali is a lot to take in. The owner likes nothing more than when customers opt for a thali: All the flavors of Nepal in an assortment of dishes, says Subash Rai, who does double duty as the restaurants chef. Dinner Tuesday through Sunday, lunch Wednesday through Friday. I still stand behind stalwarts Bucks Fishing & Camping in Washington and Charleston in Baltimore, which you can find in my Hall of Fame. hot for food all day - Lauren Toyota 2021-03-16 More than 100 utterly simple, crazy-delicious vegan recipes that satisfy cravings all day, everyday, from YouTube guru and bestselling author of Vegan Every entree has something to recommend it, and most come with a choice of sides. Indoor and outdoor seating. Stick around for Rochelle Coopers desserts, a favorite of which is her ritzy twist on smores, its honeyed meringue teased into little flames.. Made by hand, the pastas have included such glories as capunti strewn with poached tuna, tomatoes, fennel and pistachios. A pupusa bursting with oxtail and octopus gives new meaning to surf and turf, and the dish inspired by a dishwasher who makes staff meals is better for a sauce of black beans made darker and more maritime with squid ink. The sisig is one of the best pork dishes I've eaten all yearimagine a sizzling skillet of fajitas, only swap out the steak or chicken for crispy pig ears and belly, and give the whole thing a good dousing of calamansi juice. 2021 Fall Dining Guide Tom Sietsema spotlights 48 DC-area restaurants, including his 10 favorites Line cook Sam Hoefer works at the dessert station in the open kitchen at the Dabney in. ADA-compliant restroom. 2021 FALL DINING GUIDE TOM SIETSEMAOCTOBER 6, 2021 WASHINGTON POST You can also go the extra mile by wearing makeup and sunglasses with SPF protection, carrying a parasol, or rocking a wide-brim hat. Hence his fascination with fermentation throughout the menu. Linda Lomelino, the stylish blogger at the helm of Call Me Cupcake!, is a kitchen wizard who crafts ice cream so beautiful and delicious you can almost taste it melting on your tongue as you read. Dedicated to the good life, in all respects, Oyster Oyster leads the pack. But the restaurateurs are doing a four-star job of helping us navigate the pandemic with life rings including pizza and ice cream at Happy Gyro. Ditto Annies Paramount Steakhouse and the Hitching Post, which remain prized members of my collection of D.C.-area classics. Dinner Wednesday through Sunday, lunch weekends. The cooking, from chef Katarina Petonito, mirrors the setting. Rubbas inspired food is served by attentive staff in a small dining room whose pinks and greens radiate joy. I want to be open all the time and for all people, says the chef of his window-wrapped restaurant. Housemade ravioli tends to be stuffed with something that reminds you what time of year it is, and the scallop ceviche lit with lime and chiles brings Lima close. Were you to inspect his open kitchen, youd find vegetable scraps being saved for cocktails and lids instead of plastic wrap to cover food. Even soft-serve ice cream impresses us when its flavored with tahini caramel and delivered in a delicate glass tea cup. Rajoos lighter-than-usual biryani is another standout, with rice thats faint red, from chile powder, and deeply flavorful, thanks to a ginger-garlic paste. Just ask the customers who ordered the Korean take on beef Wellington, swaddled in pork belly, for Christmas. Indoor and outdoor seating. The former White House chef even manages to make cabbage seductive. A lack of staff means shorter hours of operation at restaurants across the board. Indoor and private outdoor seating. Takeout, no delivery. The drinks are as much fun as the food. Any meal is better if it includes roseate slices of beef tongue hot off the grill hotter with a dab of Japanese mustard and some cool punctuation in the form of kimchi cucumbers punched up with garlic and chile flakes. No barriers to entry; ADA-compliant restroom. This memory maker rolls up with a cart carrying an enormous dome of spun sugar hiding progressively smaller replicas inside along with dessert and a salutation on a marzipan ribbon. (Maybe youve heard. We try to create joy, says Silverman, whose team excels at awesomeness. Times up. [At long last, Albi gets to the heart of Levantine cooking]. But an even finer dish is the chicken, brined in citrus, massaged with oregano and dried before roasting. Its been tough, says the chef and co-owner of one of the brights lights in arty Mount Rainier. A sniff of the air clean, hot oil is a siren call to anything fried: crisp silvery smelts, maybe, or soft-shell crabs, sweet of meat, served with ponzu sauce for dipping and as delectable as any Ive had this year. The long line outside the cute bungalow has us worried when we pull up before its doors open for dinner. Chewy, foot-long noodles tossed with a vivid pesto of garlicky arugula puree and rough-cut pistachios is as much fun in the eating as the reading: Think fusilli and spaghetti had a baby and somehow bucatini got into the mix, teases the menu. While every other chef in town is pushing chicken, Deboy invites us to try pheasant brined in lemon, onion and bay leaf and better for passing over a charcoal grill before you slice in. Im most drawn to fish here, although the plump pork chop, brined in baking spices, is mighty impressive. Its not all brisket, spare ribs and wood-grilled salmon or chicken. Try it, youll like it. The single best starter is a plate of calamari, sprinkled with semolina and fried to a fine crunch. Dinner Wednesday through Sunday. The diners lively, art- and plant-stocked dining rooms are bridged by a long stretch of bar, my preferred place to eat and drink when Im not enjoying Deshaiess happy meals at home, that is. It can get nightclub-loud some nights, and servers have a tendency to check in like nervous new parents. Or dense and delicious morsels of lamb rolled in a grass-colored paste of raw green papaya, ginger, mint and red chiles. Dinner Tuesday through Sunday Saturday. If you hanker for, say, the painters palette of sorbets or world-class ice cream sundae, just ask. Baba ganoush is hardly the most photogenic dish in the world, but chef-owner Michael Rafidi primps it so that the first course eggplant three ways: whipped, charred and pickled holds our gaze. community, tradition, ingredients, shopping, variety, and service. Indoor and outdoor seating. To eat either entree, delivered by servers who look after you like most honored guests, is to understand whats kept the doors open all these years. Heres hoping grilled provolone on a cushion of toast makes a return appearance and the pecorino cake with pine nuts and jam never strays from the dessert list. Dinner commences with a flurry of snacks a bite of pork rillettes paired with fig and black garlic, a furl of smoked salmon on a dab of yogurt and pickled herbs before moving on to dishes that ask diners to eat outside the box. Hang in there, Pennyroyal Station! While chefs Drewno and Kim collaborate on dishes, each one is a modern take on Korean or Chinese, rather than a fusion of cuisines. The owner says hes doing one thing right. Indeed, Johnsons list draws inspiration from around the world. Meet Andrs-Julian Zuluaga, an alumnus of the school of Fabio Trabocchi. Indoor and outdoor seating. Justin Ahn was born in Korea but relocated to Southern California when he was a year old. Have you been? patrons asked me. Dinner and lunch daily, brunch Sundays. Brunch and dinner daily. The setting at Patowmack Farm 40 acres owned by restaurateur Beverly Morton Billand is beautiful and practical. The dining room is airy and light-filled. Ahn combines arborio rice and pecorino cheese as deftly as any Italian chef, but makes his risotto singular with the help of dashi instead of chicken stock and diced boiled abalone as the featured attraction. A riff on bibimbap, the colorful Korean rice dish, swaps out rice for elastic wheat noodles (jjolmyeon) imported from the restaurants namesake city in Korea, arranged with a rainbow of cucumbers, carrots and onions plus tender sea snails instead of the traditional beef. Lucky visitors to Royal Nepal. Imagine smoky green beans and shishito peppers tossed with buttermilk, chile paste, sesame oil, garlic a rousing kitchen sink of recruits. (You can count on the restaurateur, a fan of wines from Burgundy and the Loire Valley, to steer you to something special.) A gravy flavored with curry and bell peppers fills the mouth with spices that bring you closer to Africa. Takeout and delivery. Lunch weekdays, brunch weekends, dinner Monday through Saturday. Light pours through the windows, which take in a spacious patio outside. Regular customers are known to get extras messages even tucked into their bags; Marler compares them to notes in a kids lunchbox. Were she able to fill those positions, Seki says, she and her father, Hiroshi, the 32-seat taverns 74-year-old chef, could expand service to Sunday and offer longer hours. Wheelchair users can enter through a side door; ADA-compliant restroom. Chef Matt Hill and his business partner, Todd Salvadore, have worked at some of the areas best restaurants, and theyve incorporated best practices into everything they do at Ruthies, a tribute to the chefs late North Carolina grandmother. Before the pandemic, it wasnt unusual for some customers to show up with their own containers. It takes skill and good timing to achieve jjolmyeon with the desired chewiness. Takeout and delivery. Wheelchair users are asked to call ahead so a ramp can be set out at the door; ADA-compliant restroom. Dinner Wednesday through Monday. A staff snack whipped up from leftover oxtails proved so popular, it was redesigned for public consumption. Were reintroducing hospitality, says the restaurateur. The server has been on board since Frankly Pizza! Im a folder, says the owner. Novak Djokovics winning streak on the tennis court. Orders retrieved outside; no access to restaurant. Dressed with lemon juice, sumac and turmeric, its the best chopped salad in town. By the looks of my dinner this summer, hes onto something. Pizza! His lightly pickled wild sardines, served sashimi style, are from Hokkaido, Japan, noted for the freshness of its seafood. One of the areas best ambassadors for the food of southern India is this retreat, opened nine months into the pandemic by chef John Rajoo, a native of Tamil Nadu, whose capital is Chennai. Im a fool for golden nuggets of fried potatoes and juicy pork meatballs draped with tomato sauce, and fall-apart cod flanked with velvety red peppers. Over summer, diners thrilled to a rainbow of tomatoes served with what tasted like herbed ricotta but turned out to spring from pumpkin seeds, and a round of watermelon plied with chile-hot peanuts, shiso and a hidden local oyster sharpened with ginger vinaigrette. Wrought iron stretches over the part of the main dining room where charcuterie boards and seafood platters are whipped up, and a jungle of plants around the perimeters lends lushness. For now, their staff of eight is doing its best to accommodate patrons, who are reminded they cant camp out for the evening. The mistake is to think of the youthful 45-seat restaurant as yet another Korean outpost in an area brimming with similar menus. In another life, OGrady was a representative for the National Pork Producers Council. Consecutive doors lead to the foyer; ADA-compliant restroom. Indoor seating only. Datta, responsible for the 12-seat bar, counts time at Elle, Columbia Room and the esteemed Rasika West End, where he met Sundas, the former tandoor chef there. Wheelchair users can enter through a side door from the parking lot; ADA-compliant restroom. Ability to work as a team, but also the desire to learn and advance. Del Mar #1 in Tom Sietsema's Fall Dining Guide. Takeout, no delivery. 136 Paramount Park Dr., Gaithersburg, Md. A: Tom Sietsema My current favorite in Laurel is Curry Leaf, a tidy and friendly Indian outpost that offers a terrific buffet for $10.99 weekdays. A lot of people have left the industry. Asked to sum up 2021, crucible is the first word out of his mouth. Youre not going to get the usuals here, says the chef. Not to worry. Design and development by Clare Ramirez. So are frost grapes, wild chamomile and pawpaw. OUTDOOR DINING REOPENED RESTAURANTS FOR ALL BUT ADDED TO BARRIERS FOR DISABLED BRITTANY MAYES, MARIA DEL CARMEN AGUILAR VELEZJULY 13, 2021 WASHINGTON POST I havent decided when, or whether, to bring back star ratings, but beginning Oct. 17, Im restoring sound checks to my reviews. Plenty in his restaurant, a luxe extension of his Seven Reasons on 14th Street NW, will make you glad to be there. Indoor and outdoor seating. He grew up watching his mother cook the food of their homeland and was raised to pick and choose the best of Korean and American cultures. Cue the sparkling tuna tartare, garnished with strips of nori and sharing its plate with a brushstroke of pureed avocado freckled with Korean chile flakes. (Roses Luxury swaps sea bass for the original black cod and rings the entree in brilliant chive oil. But fans in summer and heaters in winter let patrons enjoy the chefs surprises, year-round, in the great outdoors. Theres no more fetching kitchen in town than the open one at Albi Arabic for my heart surrounded by a mural of characters holding hands. No barriers to entry; ADA-compliant restrooms. Schooled to be a priest, Onyona has his waiters watch how the food is made before they become guides, and the effort pays off at the restaurant. The multiple rooms soothe visitors with aqua and fuchsia seating, cascades of greenery and servers whose smiles are backed up by polish. No barriers to entry, but wheelchair users might need assistance with the two front doors; ADA-compliant restrooms. Steps at the entrance require wheelchair users to enter through a door to the left; ADA-compliant restroom. The Tombs Tonari Tortino Zenola 2022 Fall Dining Guide Diners at Dylan's Oyster Cellar in Baltimore. Dishes for sharing, $14 to $27. 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